1. The coast - the frontier
between land and sea.
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2. This is the most dynamic
of all the ocean habitats.
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3. The challenge here
is to survive change,
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4. extreme change.
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5. Cape Douglas, on the most
westerly Galapagos Island,
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6. totally unprotected from
the massive rollers of the Pacific,
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7. and one of the roughest coastlines
in the world.
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8. The marine iguanas of the Galapagos
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9. are the world's only
sea-going lizards.
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10. Seaweed is all they eat, but doing so
is a dangerous business.
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11. The local crabs have become
specially flattened,
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12. minimizing the effect
of the pounding waves.
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13. And the iguanas have huge claws
to grip the rocks.
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14. This seaweed really is fast food.
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15. There are only a few seconds
in which to grab a few mouthfuls
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16. before the next breaker
comes pounding in.
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17. Females feed
only on the exposed rocks,
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18. but the larger males dive beneath
the surface to reach the weed.
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19. They go as deep as ten meters,
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20. for there,
below the destructive waves,
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21. they find the best fronds.
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22. Cold-blooded, they have to return
to land after about ten minutes
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23. to warm up again in the sun.
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24. Finding food is not the only
challenge for coastal residents.
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25. These rocky shores are hardly
a safe place to lay their eggs.
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26. Each year, the marine iguanas
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27. have to journey inland
to find a more suitable one.
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28. The females lay their eggs
in burrows
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29. and leave them there to hatch.
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30. To do that,
they need nice soft sand.
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31. Down at the water's edge,
it was easy to escape danger
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32. in rocky crevices.
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33. Up here, the females
are dangerously exposed.
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34. A Galapagos hawk.
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35. The lizards don't give up
without a struggle.
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36. These hawks stay on the coast
all year, but they are exceptional.
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37. Most of the birds
that frequent this frontier
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38. spend most of their time
in or above the open ocean.
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39. However, all seabirds have to come
to land in order to lay their eggs.
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40. And, after many lonely months
spent searching the ocean for food,
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41. they have to re-establish
social relationships.
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42. Frigate birds display
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43. and exchange nest material.
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44. Waved albatross dance.
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45. The need to lay eggs on firm ground
ties the albatross to the coast,
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46. but parental responsibilities
are shared.
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47. While one looks after the egg,
the other can go off to feed.
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48. The need to breed
brings many different animals
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49. to the coast each year
for a few weeks.
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50. Male sea turtles
spend all their lives at sea,
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51. but the females, like birds,
must come to land to lay their eggs.
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52. To do that, green turtles that live
and feed off the coast of Brazil
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53. swim 1,500 miles to the tiny island
of Ascension,
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54. that lies bang in the middle
of the Atlantic Ocean.
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55. How they manage to navigate
with such accuracy
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56. and find this tiny lump of rock
just seven miles wide is a mystery.
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57. But, each year, up to 5,000 turtles
manage to do so,
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58. and then, close to
the coast of Ascension, they mate.
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59. Traveling to and from Ascension
and nesting can take six months.
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60. Throughout the entire time,
none of them feed at all.
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61. After mating,
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62. a female has to leave her natural
element and haul herself onto land.
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63. She does so at night, laying three
or four times at 15-day intervals.
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64. After that, she swims back
to the seas off Brazil.
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65. She returns to this very same
island throughout her life.
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66. Remarkably, all the world's sea
turtles return, year after year,
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67. to a few traditional
breeding sites.
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68. Crab Island in Australia
is one of them.
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69. This tiny two-mile long
crescent of sand,
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70. provides nesting sites
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71. for half the population
of one of the rarest sea turtles.
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72. Flat-backed turtles
are over a meter long,
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73. but they have to be careful-
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74. there are other giant reptiles
here, too.
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75. Salt-water crocodiles.
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76. Every night throughout the year,
there are flat-backs
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77. burying their eggs
all along this stretch of sand.
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78. Nine weeks later,
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79. and things are about to happen.
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80. These eyes shining in the darkness
belong to night herons.
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81. As if from nowhere, hundreds
of birds appear on the sand dunes.
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82. Pelicans wait patiently.
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83. Jabiru storks pace up and down.
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84. Before long, they see
what they've been waiting for.
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85. Because these turtles
lay their eggs throughout the year,
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86. the hatchlings emerge nightly in
a steady trickle of beak-sized meals.
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87. The pelicans' broad beaks allow them
to dig out the hatchlings
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88. before the herons
can spear them on the surface.
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89. The surf may be
hundreds of meters away
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90. and at least a third
do not survive the journey.
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91. It's not just the birds
that take them.
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92. Crocodiles, sharks and hungry fish
are all waiting in the shallows.
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93. In fact, only one in 100 hatchlings
will survive to adulthood.
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94. Another beach, another continent
and a very special night.
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95. In Costa Rica, a turtle has found
a way of reducing these dangers.
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96. When Ridley's turtles arrive
to la y their eggs,
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97. they don't come in tens
or hundreds, but in thousands.
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98. In the next six days, around 400,000
females will visit this beach.
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99. At the peak time, 5, 000 are
coming and going each hour.
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100. The beach gets so crowded,
they have to clamber over one another
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101. to find bare sand
where they can dig a nest hole.
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102. 40 million eggs
are laid in these few days.
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103. These turtles ensure
that six weeks later,
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104. when their hatchlings emerge,
it's not just a trickle.
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105. It's a flood!
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106. On some nights,
over two million hatchlings
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107. race down to the sea together.
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108. With so many
appearing simultaneously,
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109. the predators are overwhelmed.
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110. Most of the turtles
reach the sea safely.
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111. Leaving the sea and emerging
onto land is hard enough for turtles.
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112. It's even harder for fish.
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113. Each year, for hundreds of miles
along the Newfoundland coast,
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114. capelin throw themselves
onto the beaches.
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115. At least a million tons of fish
floundering out of the water -
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116. a real gift for scavenging
eagles and gulls.
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117. Odd though it may seem
for the fish,
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118. the capelin, like the turtles, have
also come out of the sea to breed.
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119. The males are trying
to fertilize the eggs
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120. that the females deposit in the sand.
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121. Like the Ridley's turtles, they've
synchronized their mass laying with the tide.
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122. In a few days, it will be over.
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123. Most of the capelin die,
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124. but only after they've left
their eggs in the sand.
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125. Other capelin populations
lay their eggs in the ocean,
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126. so why do the Newfoundland fish
spawn on land?
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127. It seems that eggs deposited
on the beach are safer from predators
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128. and develop faster
than in colder waters out to sea.
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129. But, wherever they do so,
the huge spawning shoals
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130. provide the concentration of food
that seabirds need
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131. when THEY assemble to breed.
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132. 95% of the world's seabirds
nest together,
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133. mostly in large
spectacular colonies.
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134. This is Funk Island, 40 miles
off the coast of Newfoundland -
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135. an isolated rock
crammed with breeding seabirds.
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136. This was the last breeding ground
for the flightless great auk,
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137. sadly now extinct.
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138. Today, it's still the world's
largest guillemot colony.
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139. Over a million of them share
this island with 250,000 gannets.
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140. It's not the lack of suitable sites
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141. that causes seabirds
to breed in such densities.
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142. Here, in the North Atlantic,
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143. there's a wide choice of empty
coastline the birds could use.
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144. The key factor limiting
seabird colonies
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145. seems to be availability of food
in the surrounding ocean.
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146. There are lots
of hungry mouths to feed
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147. and a constant demand for fish.
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148. Throughout the long summer days,
at colonies like Funk,
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149. there's a continual stream of birds
heading out to find food
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150. and returning with full crops
to feed their young.
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151. Gannets will travel up to 200 miles
from the colony
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152. on a single foraging trip.
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153. They are not fussy eaters
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154. and will take everything
from tiny sand eels to herring.
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155. Puffins, on the other hand,
are particular about what they eat.
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156. Because they can only fly
short distances,
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157. they only nest where there is
a good supply of food close by.
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158. One such place is the Sea
of Okhotsk in far eastern Russia.
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159. This is the island of Talan.
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160. Throughout the long Arctic winter
it is encircled by ice.
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161. But as spring approaches,
that begins to break up,
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162. and seabirds that have wintered
far to the south
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163. begin to return.
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164. Its isolated position
and steep cliffs
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165. make Talan a perfect nesting site.
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166. The tufted puffins arrive first.
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167. These are the Pacific cousins
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168. of our less spectacular
Atlantic species.
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169. Horned puffins soon follow.
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170. In all, 14 different species
return to Talan each spring.
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171. In a few weeks, the silent cliffs
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172. come alive to the calls
of four million breeding seabirds.
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173. This is a multi-story avian city.
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174. Assembling in these colonies,
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175. after having spent
a largely solitary life at sea,
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176. provides the birds
with the social stimulation
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177. that is the key
to coordinating their breeding.
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178. By nesting and laying together,
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179. they ensure that most chicks will
leave the nest at the same time.
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180. Like the turtles, this is the way
they spread the impact of predators.
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181. The world's largest eagle -
Steller sea eagle -
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182. a third as big again
as a golden eagle.
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183. Throughout the summer, the eagles
hunt in Talan's crowded colonies.
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184. Riding on the updrafts,
they patrol the cliff tops,
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185. looking out for any kittiwake
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186. that ventures too far
from the rock face.
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187. The huge eagle swoops with
the aerial agility of a falcon.
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188. Co-ordinated panic among the
kittiwakes confuses their attacker.
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189. But the eagle doesn't give up.
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190. And it has got one.
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191. Another kind of seabird on Talan
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192. has a particularly effective way
of defending itself against predators,
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193. but it doesn't appear
until an hour before sunset.
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194. As if from nowhere, dense swarms
of seabirds suddenly arrive offshore.
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195. They've spent the day
feeding far away
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196. where the sea ice
has already broken up.
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197. They are crested auklets,
hardly bigger than starlings.
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198. A million of them
return to Talan each year
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199. to nest in its fields of boulders.
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200. For the hour before sunset,
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201. the hillsides come alive
with huge flocks of circling auklets,
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202. They're nervous.
No one wants to be the first to land.
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203. Auklets are very social
when they're together at the coast.
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204. One advantage of nesting
in such densities
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205. may be the chance to share
information on feeding sites.
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206. It also gives them
the opportunity to court.
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207. But, most importantly,
there is safety in numbers.
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208. Ravens and peregrines
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209. circle above the scree slope
every evening.
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210. By taking off together, the auklets
hope to confuse the predators.
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211. Eventually,
their persistence pays off.
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212. The birds that face
the greatest challenge
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213. in coming to the coast to nest
are surely the penguins.
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214. Unable to fly,
they have no alternative
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215. but to brave the immense waves.
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216. Most penguins live
in the southern ocean,
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217. and they have to accept
being hurled about by the surf.
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218. Whatever the weather,
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219. the penguin parents have
to come back to feed their chicks.
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220. A southern sea-lion bull.
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221. He knows the penguins always use
the same traditional landing beach.
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222. Having braved the thundering surf,
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223. the penguins have to make a mad dash
across open rock to their nests.
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224. Despite his massive size
and a body adapted for swimming,
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225. the bull chases the penguins
for 40 or 50 meters across the rocks.
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226. Having caught his penguin, the
sea-lion carries it into deeper water,
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227. where, by violently thrashing
the little body, he skins his meal.
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228. The seas around the Falklands are
some of the roughest in the world.
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229. In spite of that,
the southern ocean is home
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230. to millions of tiny seabirds hardly
bigger than swallows - petrels.
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231. Being so small, they're very
vulnerable to the bad weather.
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232. A storm can blow them
miles off course
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233. and keep them
away from their nests for days.
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234. But these birds have developed
an effective solution to the problem.
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235. They lay a rather special egg.
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236. Most birds' eggs, left exposed
for even a few hours,
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237. will chill and never hatch.
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238. But these eggs are different.
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239. They can be left undamaged
for several days without incubation
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240. while the parents struggle home
through the storm.
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241. Prions have also come up with
a good way to avoid most predators.
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242. They never come back to the coast
until after dark.
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243. These are thin-billed prions.
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244. Their burrows honeycomb
this Falklands hillside.
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245. It's deserted in daylight,
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246. but as soon as it's dark
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247. and difficult
for airborne predators to hunt,
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248. the prions return.
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249. As soon as they land, they call.
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250. The problem, of course, is finding
your burrow among all the others.
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251. He's listening out
for his mate's call.
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252. And down he goes.
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253. The Alaskan coast.
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254. It's spring, and the last
of the winter storms is subsiding.
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255. The plankton in this sea
is in bloom again.
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256. Just off shore, humpback whales
have returned to feed.
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257. For these huge animals,
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258. there's a real risk
in coming into such shallow water,
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259. and each year, a good number
of them pay the price.
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260. It's an ignominious ending
for an aging whale,
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261. but so much flesh
will not go to waste.
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262. A black bear
emerges cautiously from the woods.
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263. Visitors to the coast
that don't come to breed,
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264. usually come to scavenge.
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265. A whole range of animals exploit
the enormous quantity of food
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266. that washes up every day
on coastlines around the world.
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267. But, like so much of the coast,
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268. the quantity of flotsam and jetsam
is unpredictable.
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269. Nobody can rely on it alone.
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270. This carcass even attracted
a shy pack of wolves,
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271. only too happy to anoint themselves
with the scent of rotting whale.
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272. It was months before the scavengers
finally cleaned up all the meat
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273. on this huge and unpredictable
gift from the sea.
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274. Whales give birth
to their young at sea,
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275. so can spend
their entire lives there.
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276. Other marine mammals -
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277. ones that are, in fact,
distant cousins of bears -
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278. have to return each year
to their ancestral home on land.
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279. The high Arctic.
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280. Here lives one of them -
the walrus.
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281. Walruses spend
nearly all their lives at sea.
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282. But each year, for a few weeks,
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283. they have to return to the coast.
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284. They seek out isolated beaches like
Round Island in the northern Pacific.
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285. Suitable sites like this,
free from bears, are so scarce
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286. that at times
as many as 14,000 animals
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287. will cram themselves
onto this one beach.
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288. When they first emerge from the sea,
the walrus are white.
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289. As warm-blooded animals
living in a very cold ocean,
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290. they conserve heat
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291. by keeping their blood concentrated
in the core of their bodies.
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292. On land, it's warm enough
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293. for them to allow
their outer blood vessels to dilate.
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294. That turns their skin
from white to pink.
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295. Now they can molt
the outer layers of their skin,
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296. rubbing themselves
up against the rocks.
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297. But more than anything else,
coming to land brings the walrus relief
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298. from having to spend energy
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299. maintaining body temperature
in an icy-cold ocean.
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300. Heat conservation, in fact,
may be the primary reason
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301. so many sea mammals are forced
to return to the land each year.
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302. The world's coldest seas
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303. are in Antarctica.
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304. Each spring, half the world's
southern elephant seals
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305. return to the island
of South Georgia.
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306. Elephant seals have a particularly
thick insulation of blubber
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307. that keeps them warm.
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308. For them, breeding is the only
reason to leave the sea.
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309. With temperatures down to minus 20,
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310. and 100-mile-an-hour winds,
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311. It can't be comfortable
on the beach.
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312. But heat dissipates more rapidly
through water than air.
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313. So even in these conditions,
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314. their young, which at first
don't have a thick coat of blubber,
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315. will be far warmer on the land.
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316. Once the males are established on
the beach, the females soon follow.
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317. Within just ten days,
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318. the empty beach fills up
with 6, 000 elephant seals.
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319. Almost immediately,
the females give birth
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320. to pups sired the previous year.
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321. Their milk is very rich and the
pups grow astonishingly quickly.
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322. In just three weeks,
they turn from thin bags of skin,
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323. to fat balls of blubber.
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324. As soon as they've given birth, the
females become sexually receptive.
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325. Now the advantages of breeding
in dense colonies become clear.
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326. Females can choose from many males,
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327. while successful males can have
access to lots of females.
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328. But to gain that access
and control a harem of females,
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329. the bull must be prepared to fight.
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330. The larger the male, the louder
the roar, the more likely he is to win.
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331. When males are well matched,
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332. these bloody battles
will last 20 minutes or more.
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333. Eventually, the loser retreats
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334. into a stream already pink
with his own blood.
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335. These battles certainly help
females select the strongest bulls,
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336. but they bring great dangers
to the pups.
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337. Each year, in the denser parts
of the colony,
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338. a fifth of the pups
are crushed to death.
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339. This is why
it may be better to mate
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340. at the edge of the beach
close to the sea.
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341. Less dominant males
hide in the surf.
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342. They are waiting to try and steal
an illicit mating
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343. with females as they come and go.
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344. This male knows he has been spotted
by the big bull
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345. who claims all the females
on this part of the beach.
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346. Breeding in groups
can bring advantages to pups
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347. as well as to adults.
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348. Along the coast of Patagonia,
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349. southern sea-lions breed together
in groups several hundred strong.
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350. For the growing pup, these colonies
act rather like a school.
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351. The bonds developed here may be
vital for the rest of their lives.
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352. Sea-lions are social animals.
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353. As adults and young
forage together,
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354. they probably share information
about good feeding sites.
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355. Conditions could hardly be better
for the growing youngsters.
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356. As the tide goes out, it leaves
a selection of sheltered pools.
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357. Perfect places
for learning to swim.
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358. At high tide,
it's easy for the pups
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359. to take their first
experimental dips in the surf.
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360. A killer whale.
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361. These young pups have never seen
anything like it before.
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362. The whales,
though, are very experienced.
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363. Each year, this same group
turns up along the coast
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364. at precisely the same time
as the pups start to swim.
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365. The whales
need to surprise the pups,
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366. so they have stopped calling
to each other, and keep silent.
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367. Speed is everything.
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368. The whales do not take pups
that are out of the water,
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369. but their momentum
can drive them up the beach
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370. and then there's real danger
of getting stuck.
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371. The whale has to thrash in this
frenzied way to get off the beach.
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372. Most of the pups are taken
into deep water while still alive.
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373. And there the whales,
apparently, play with them.
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374. Often, an adult whale
is joined in the game by a youngster.
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375. It may be learning
how to grab a seal pup
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376. before it risks
a drive up the beach.
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377. Whatever the reason,
the seal pup - still alive -
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378. is tossed back and forth
for over half an hour.
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379. Even when the pup is dead,
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380. the whales' sport
is not completely over.
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381. We can only speculate
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382. at the real reasons behind
this extraordinary behavior.
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383. But, for the whales,
the hunting season is a short one.
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384. Before long, the pups learn
to stay clear of the water,
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385. and the whales
become less successful.
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386. After two weeks, they move on.
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387. The killing season is over.
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388. That's how it often happens
along the coast.
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389. Things are always changing.
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390. They're never the same for long
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391. in this, the most dynamic
of all the ocean's habitats.
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