1. The frozen seas
are worlds unto themselves.
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2. Beneath their ceiling of ice,
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3. they have an eerie,
almost magical stillness,
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4. cutoff from the storms
that rage above.
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5. In the winter, the feeble slanting
rays of the sun bring little warmth
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6. and the temperature seldom rises
above minus 50 degrees Centigrade.
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7. For much of the year,
it is dark and cripplingly cold.
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8. Yet, there is life here
at both ends of the earth -
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9. the Arctic and the Antarctic.
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10. For most animals, whether
they live in or out of water,
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11. the winters,
when much of the sea is frozen,
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12. bring the greatest challenge.
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13. The northern hemisphere.
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14. It's February,
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15. and as the earth tilts on its axis,
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16. the sun's rays
creep slowly northwards
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17. and the Arctic emerges
from its harsh winter.
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18. The Arctic is a frozen ocean
surrounded by continents,
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19. and when the surface of the sea
between the continents
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20. freezes from shore to shore,
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21. land predators walk out onto it
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22. to hunt.
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23. It's early March,
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24. and the sea is still covered
with ice...
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25. But there are patches
of open water - polynyas -
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26. that never freeze over.
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27. Here, where tidal currents
are squeezed between islands,
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28. the water movement is so strong
that ice cannot form.
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29. Walruses spend the winter
in polynyas.
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30. Here they have permanent access
to the air,
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31. but they can also retreat
to the sea to shelter, to hunt.
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32. Other sea mammals overwinter
in polynyas as well - in this one,
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33. a young bowhead whale.
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34. Here, the current is really fast
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35. and the shifting ice is dangerous.
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36. This whale became trapped
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37. when ice encircled it last autumn.
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38. There is no food here,
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39. but a whale must breathe,
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40. and the only place it can do so
for miles around is in this tiny hole.
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41. It's living entirely
on its reserves of fat,
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42. but now, they're dangerously low.
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43. It will be some months yet
before it can escape.
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44. Elsewhere, other whales
have also been trapped.
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45. These are belugas.
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46. Their tiny hole in the ice
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47. has been kept open not by currents,
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48. but by the belugas'
continuous movements
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49. as they rise to breathe.
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50. Open water is now
some 20 miles away.
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51. It will be two months yet
before the ice melts.
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52. The belugas are extremely thin
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53. and most of them
are horribly scarred.
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54. But their wounds
were not inflicted by the ice.
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55. A whale would be a huge prize
for any meat-eating hunter,
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56. and these belugas,
trapped by the ice,
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57. are within reach of polar bears.
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58. Well aware of the danger,
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59. the belugas stay submerged
as long as they can,
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60. but they can only hold their breath
for about 20 minutes.
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61. Catching a four-meter-long whale
that weighs one ton
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62. is no easy task,
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63. even if that whale
is weakened by starvation.
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64. But a beluga
is well worth waiting for.
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65. Day by day,
as the hole gets bigger,
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66. it becomes increasingly difficult
for the bear to land a whale.
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67. Keeping its fur in good condition
and free from salt
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68. is important for warmth,
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69. and the bear uses snow
like blotting paper.
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70. These belugas have been attacked
by many bears
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71. over the last six months,
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72. and some have been caught.
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73. It may have taken a long time
and a lot of patience,
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74. but a catch when it's made
brings abundant rewards
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75. of energy-rich blubber.
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76. Gulls rely on bear kills
at this time of the year,
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77. and the color of blood
staining the ice
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78. attracts them from a long way away.
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79. The remaining belugas
still have a long wait
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80. before they're released
from their prison
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81. and the threat of slaughter.
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82. Arctic foxes
also rely on the polar bears
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83. to hunt on their behalf.
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84. They're the jackals of the north,
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85. and scavenge from bear kills
whenever they can.
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86. In winter and early spring,
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87. they're wholly dependent on bears.
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88. Only in the summer,
when the sea ice melts,
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89. will they regularly catch prey
for themselves.
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90. They're not strong enough
to tackle adult seals,
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91. but can certainly take
new-born pups or birds.
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92. This canny individual
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93. is going to bury its prize.
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94. It may need it
during the uncertain times ahead.
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95. The presence of bears
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96. affects the behavior of almost all
the animals here, big and small.
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97. The bears tend to avoid
the fringe of fragmented ice
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98. bordering open water
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99. where traveling
can be very laborious,
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100. but that very fact
makes this area - the pack ice -
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101. a particularly good place
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102. for seals to pup.
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103. Harp seals breed here.
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104. Their pups are born with white coats
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105. which camouflage them
very effectively against the snow.
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106. Harp seals have
a very short nursing period -
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107. a necessity
on this unstable pack ice -
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108. but suckling is intensive.
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109. The pup feeds for just 12 days
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110. on milk that is 45 per cent fat.
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111. Then it's abandoned
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112. and has to fend for itself.
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113. A male hooded seal.
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114. This impressive nasal display
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115. is used to warn away other males...
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116. and to win a mate.
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117. Hooded seals also breed
on pack ice.
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118. Their pups suckle
for only four days,
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119. the shortest nursing period
known for any mammal,
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120. and all because
the threat of polar bears
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121. Another Arctic seal opts
for the solid ice further north.
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122. Because it's easy for bears
to hunt here,
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123. these ringed seals
must be particularly vigilant
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124. and have to hide their pups.
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125. Ringed seals
are comparatively small,
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126. so they can give birth
to their pups
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127. in little caves or lairs
under the snow.
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128. Here, a pup is out of sight
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129. and protected from bad weather.
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130. In late March and into April,
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131. female bears emerge from
winter dens with their new cubs.
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132. The mother has not eaten
for at least five months
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133. and she's hungry - very hungry.
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134. If she doesn't succeed in catching
a regular supply of seals,
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135. her milk will fail
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136. and her cub will die.
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137. Bears have an extraordinarily
sensitive sense of smell
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138. and can detect seal pups
hidden in the snow
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139. from two kilometers away.
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140. But a female ringed seal
uses several lairs
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141. and a bear will have
to break into a number
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142. before it finds one
that is occupied.
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143. This is a crucial time for the cub.
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144. By watching its mother hunt
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145. and by copying her actions, it's
beginning to acquire the rudiments
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146. of its own hunting skills.
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147. Play is also important
for developing muscles
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148. and improving co-ordination.
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149. As the days go by,
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150. the sun rises higher and remains
above the horizon even at night.
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151. The female bear continues to hunt
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152. until her cub is too tired
and can't keep up.
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153. She's smelt something.
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154. The pup escapes
through a hole in its lair
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155. that leads to the sea below.
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156. Only one in 20 hunts is successful,
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157. but this mother
must find a seal pup soon
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158. if her cub is not
to starve to death.
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159. As spring turns into summer, the sun's
heat begins to melt the sea ice.
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160. Now, the ocean is accessible
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161. and the Arctic's summer visitors
return.
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162. Migrating birds
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163. arrive from the south
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164. to nest and feed on the seafood
now within their reach.
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165. Brunnich's guillemots
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166. are the northern equivalent
of penguins,
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167. but they have retained
the power of flight
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168. for they need to reach cliff ledges
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169. where their nests will be safe
from predatory bears and foxes.
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170. Nonetheless, they are as at home
in the water as in the air.
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171. They dive down
to a depth of 50 meters or more
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172. to catch fish.
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173. In June, the ice begins to fracture.
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174. The cracks - or leads -
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175. form useful corridors of open water
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176. for air-breathing animals.
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177. Belugas, migrating
to their feeding grounds,
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178. use these leads to penetrate
the ice-covered seas and reach areas
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179. where their preferred food,
Arctic cod, has spent the winter.
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180. The males regularly dive
to about 500 meters to find fish.
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181. The females and young,
which have smaller lungs,
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182. only go to about 350.
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183. In late June and July,
narwhals arrive.
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184. The females,
who usually lack tusks,
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185. come first with their new calves.
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186. The males follow a little later.
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187. They also move up the leads
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188. in search of fresh feeding grounds.
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189. Bowheads. Up to 18 meters long
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190. and weighing 100 tons.
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191. These are the only large whales
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192. that stay in the Arctic
all year round.
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193. They are not after fish.
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194. They're seeking smaller prey.
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195. Despite having the largest mouths
in the animal kingdom -
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196. the size of a small garage -
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197. they eat tiny crustaceans -
copepods -
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198. straining them from the water
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199. with the four-meter-long strips
of baleen
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200. that hang from their upper jaws.
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201. In the summer,
they store enough energy
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202. to last them
through the following winter
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203. when food will be less abundant.
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204. As the ice melts away,
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205. the polar bears are forced
to head for land.
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206. They are excellent swimmers,
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207. and can cover 100 miles
of continuous open water if need be.
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208. Off east Greenland,
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209. there is little ice left by August,
so walruses haul out
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210. to rest on land.
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211. At this time of year,
they are molting,
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212. getting rid of their old,
scarred, parasite-ridden skin.
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213. A bathe in cold water brings
some relief from the itching...
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214. but even there,
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215. the odd scratch is irresistible.
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216. They make daily excursions
out to deeper water.
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217. Down at 20 meters,
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218. they root around in the sediment,
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219. using their sensitive bristles
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220. to search out soft-shelled clams.
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221. Once they find a clam,
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222. they suck its flesh from the shell
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223. with their powerful,
muscular mouths.
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224. Walruses can feed for
about five minutes at this depth
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225. before they have to return
to the surface to breathe.
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226. Elsewhere in the Arctic, belugas are
gathering in their thousands.
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227. They congregate
in just a few large estuaries.
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228. Belugas of all ages and sizes
come here.
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229. There are even young calves.
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230. Some are so young -
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231. born only a week or so ago -
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232. that they need help.
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233. They swim on their mothers' backs
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234. so that they can breathe
more easily.
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235. As the tide moves up the estuary,
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236. the belugas follow,
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237. Like walruses,
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238. they also need to molt.
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239. A combination of warm fresh water
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240. and vigorous rubbing
against the gravel does the trick.
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241. They remain here for days
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242. or even weeks,
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243. so it's likely that socializing
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244. is also important to them.
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245. After molting,
they head back out to sea to feed.
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246. It's now autumn,
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247. and the sea begins
to freeze over once again.
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248. Thin sheets of ice form
at the surface
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249. and pile up, layer upon layer,
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250. gradually creating
an impenetrable barrier.
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251. By late November, the Arctic ocean
is sealed once again by ice.
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252. The lights of the aurora
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253. play in the winter sky.
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254. And at the other end
of the planet - in the Antarctic -
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255. there is the southern aurora.
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256. Antarctica is now
emerging from winter.
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257. This is the coldest,
windiest place in the world.
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258. Temperatures are still hovering
at a numbing minus 50,
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259. and the returning sun
has virtually no warmth.
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260. Very few animals can survive
such extreme conditions...
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261. but Emperor penguins can.
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262. Standing on the frozen sea,
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263. they endure the full force
of the Antarctic storms.
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264. Only by huddling together
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265. can they survive
the appalling winter months.
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266. They take it in turns
to bear the brunt of the gales.
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267. They can only live here at all
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268. because Antarctica is surrounded
by the great Southern Ocean
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269. and no land predators
have been able to reach it,
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270. so, unlike Arctic animals,
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271. they're not threatened
by polar bears.
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272. The sea is still frozen,
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273. but one seal, nonetheless,
manages to stay here,
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274. even throughout the winter -
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275. the Weddell seal.
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276. Underwater, it's protected
from the storms above,
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277. but it must have access
to the air all year
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278. And they keep
their breathing holes open
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279. with their teeth.
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280. Only by continually
scraping away at the ice
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281. can they maintain access
to the air,
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282. but that means that their teeth
get badly worn down.
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283. Then, they can no longer hunt
and eat effectively.
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284. Weddell seals die young.
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285. The continent of Antarctica
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286. is so isolated and so high -
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287. almost 5,000 meters in places -
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288. that it's considerably colder
than the Arctic.
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289. Ice slides slowly down
from its canter
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290. towards its rim
in immense glaciers.
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291. During winter, the continent
effectively doubles in size
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292. 6S the sea freezes over.
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293. Ice forms around its shores
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294. and extends outwards
for hundreds of miles
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295. around the entire land mass.
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296. Under the sea ice live small
shrimp-like creatures - krill.
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297. They have been here all winter.
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298. During these dark months,
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299. they feed by scraping algae
from the ice.
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300. Remarkably, they also shrink in size
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301. and revert to their juvenile form
to save energy.
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302. As the temperature rises in spring,
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303. the ice begins to melt,
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304. and little air bubbles
trapped within it are released.
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305. Microscopic algae grow
around these bubbles
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306. and the krill now graze on them,
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307. gathering them up
with their beating legs.
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308. As the sun's rays grow stronger
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309. and penetrate deeper
Into the water,
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310. floating algae begin to flourish,
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311. and krill leave the dwindling ice
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312. and gather in swarms
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313. as they harvest this new crop.
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314. Far to the north,
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315. beyond the blanket of sea ice,
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316. chinstrap penguins
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317. have been overwintering
in the open ocean.
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318. The occasional iceberg
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319. gives them the chance of a rest-
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320. if they can get onto it.
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321. But at this time of year,
where they really want to be
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322. is on land.
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323. It's just getting there
that's tricky.
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324. It's spring, and the penguins
are returning to breed.
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325. Their need to get ashore
is now urgent and imperative.
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326. Doing so is all a matter of timing,
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327. and picking the right wave.
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328. But their journey
has only just begun.
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329. Most of them will have to walk
many miles
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330. before they can find a nest site.
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331. This is Zavodovski Island,
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332. which has the largest
penguin colony in the world.
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333. About two million chinstraps
breed here,
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334. and they come to THIS island
for a good reason.
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335. It's an active volcano.
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336. The heat from the crater
and the fumaroles
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337. keeps the slopes
free from the ice and snow,
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338. allowing these chinstraps
to start breeding earlier
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339. than those further south.
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340. But then again,
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341. living on an active volcano
is not without its risks.
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342. Unlike the Emperors,
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343. these penguins are able to lay
their eggs on the bare ground.
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344. Little wonder so many choose
to brave the mountainous waves
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345. in order to get here.
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346. Further south, near the continent,
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347. the blanket of sea ice
is beginning to break up.
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348. Icebergs are gigantic fragments
of ice
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349. that have broken away into the sea
from the front of glaciers.
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350. During the winter,
they were frozen into the sea ice,
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351. but now they're set adrift
once more.
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352. As the bergs break up,
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353. they form brash ice.
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354. It litters the backwaters
of the Antarctic peninsula.
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355. Minke whales make their way
into these placid waters in summer.
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356. This is the most abundant whale
in the Southern Ocean.
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357. Minkes are one of the smallest
of all the baleen whales,
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358. and like all others,
they come here to feed.
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359. The majestic humpback whales
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360. are also summer visitors.
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361. They have traveled
thousands of miles
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362. from their winter breeding grounds
in the tropics
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363. to gather the food that becomes
available here in summer.
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364. In just four months,
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365. they accumulate enough fat
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366. to provide them with energy for
the whole of the rest of the year.
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367. All these animals have come here
in search of one thing -
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368. the krill.
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369. Krill is the mainstay
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370. of the Antarctic food web.
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371. It occurs in phenomenal quantity -
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372. billions of individuals
in a single swarm,
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373. and swarms can stretch for miles.
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374. Fur seals also collect
this rich, super-abundant food.
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375. Krill swarms are very patchy,
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376. but once found,
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377. feeding is easy.
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378. Humpbacks engulf
hundreds of thousands of them
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379. in a single gargantuan mouthful.
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380. When the going is good,
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381. the whales feed continuously,
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382. each eating
up to two tons of krill
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383. in 24 hours.
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384. Further south, near the continent,
the sea ice is still sound.
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385. Here, where the ice remains
for most of the summer,
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386. Emperor penguins make their home.
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387. These have been feeding out at sea,
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388. and are now ready to make
their way back to the colony
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389. to feed their chicks.
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390. Instead of heading
straight for the ice edge,
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391. the penguins hesitate
some distance from it.
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392. They're nervous.
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393. They dive down
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394. and investigate the ice edge...
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395. And for good reason.
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396. Leopard seals patrol this border.
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397. Leopard seals are the Antarctic's
equivalent of polar bears.
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398. They're the top predators,
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399. but they hunt most successfully
in the water,
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400. so by and large,
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401. the animals they prey on
are safer out on the ice.
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402. They have a lazy grace
that belies their ferocious nature.
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403. Confident that the coast is clear,
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404. the Emperor penguins
head for the ice...
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405. but they certainly don't linger.
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406. Now they have a long walk back
to the colony.
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407. Emperor penguin colonies are
some way back from the ice edge.
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408. In winter, they may be
as much as 100 miles from it,
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409. but as the summer progresses
and the ice melts,
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410. the edge comes ever closer
to the colony.
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411. So by the time the chicks
are fledged
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412. and ready to take their first swim,
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413. the water is close by.
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414. This colony is in the lee
of a headland,
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415. and that prevents the ice
from being broken up
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416. by ocean currents.
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417. The returning adults
are so full of food
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418. that they can barely walk,
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419. but with no predator
to threaten them now,
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420. they can take their time.
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421. Somehow, in this melee
of 60,000 or so penguins,
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422. a parent has to find its chick.
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423. It returns to the place
where it last left its chick
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424. in the hope
that it might still be close by...
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425. but chicks tend to wander,
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426. so the adult has to call to it.
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427. The chick responds,
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428. and they slowly
home in on one another.
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429. The plaintive entreaties
of the chick
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430. stimulates the adult
to regurgitate a mouthful of fish.
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431. With the return of one parent,
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432. the other is free to go to sea
to feed for itself.
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433. Aware of the leopard seal's
presence,
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434. the penguins press together
at the ice edge
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435. unwilling to be the first
to risk diving in.
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436. Occasionally,
the seal comes out onto the ice
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437. and attempts to grab one...
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438. But its most successful strategy
by far
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439. is to lie in wait.
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440. It hides behind a corner of ice.
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441. The Emperors gain confidence
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442. and make a dash for it.
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443. The first wave of penguins escape.
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444. Once in open water,
they will be safe.
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445. But the seal is alerted
by the noise,
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446. and through the mass of bubbles,
it makes its attack.
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447. Almost invariably, it makes a kill.
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448. Encouraged by the absence
of the seal,
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449. the remaining penguins
make a break for the open sea.
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450. In time, their chicks will fledge,
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451. and when the Antarctic autumn
is near its end,
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452. these adults will walk
across the newly-formed ice
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453. to endure yet another winter
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454. on the frozen sea.
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