Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations 1x1

1. SEE, THIS IS THE WAY I WANTED THE SHOW TO LOOK —

2. BLACK AND WHITE,

3. REMINISCENT OF THOSE GREAT '50s FRENCH FILMS

4. LIKE BOB le FLAMBEUR.

5. YOU KNOW, THE SORT OF UNFLAPPABLE, SORT OF SAD,

6. BUT FATALISTIC FRENCH HERO.

7. YOU KNOW, EVERY BAD TURN IN LIFE,

8. JUST ANOTHER THROW OF THE DICE.

9. A SHRUG AND A "C'EST NORMAL."

10. BUT UNFORTUNATELY I'VE GOT A COUPLE OF BIG PROBLEMS

11. GETTING IN THE WAY OF THAT SHOW.

12. THE FIRST...

13. DAMN.

14. SOME AMERICANS ARE STARTING TO THINK THE FRENCH SUCK,

15. BUT I THINK WE MAY BE LOOKING AT THEM IN THE WRONG WAY,

16. AND THUS NOT ALLOWING OURSELVES TO EXPERIENCE THE WORLD.

17. C'EST PAS NORMAL.

18. WHAT'S THE SECOND, YOU ASK?

19. UNFORTUNATELY, THIS IS TELEVISION.

20. I'M ANTHONY BOURDAIN.

21. I WRITE, I TRAVEL, I EAT,

22. AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE.

23. NEW YORK TO PARIS, SEVEN HOURS.

24. WELCOME ABOARD.

25. WELCOME ABOARD THE SPACIOUS CABIN.

26. THIS IS THE ATMOSPHERE ON A JET CLIPPER FLIGHT.

27. DELICIOUS FOOD ADDS TO THE ENJOYMENT.

28. PARIS — RIGHT AWAY YOU'RE IN THE SWIM OF THINGS,

29. BECAUSE ONCE MORE YOU'VE LANDED REFRESHED

30. AND WITH EXTRA HOURS TO DO WHAT YOU WANT TO DO

31. IN A LEISURELY WAY.

32. BULL

33. THE FOOD WAS SHOCKINGLY BAD, EVEN FOR AN AIRPLANE.

34. THE SEATS — FORGET ABOUT IT.

35. I FEEL LIKE I'VE BEEN CHAINED TO A RADIATOR ALL NIGHT,

36. AND NOW THIS?

37. LISTEN, I DON'T SEE ANYBODY WAITING FOR ME, OKAY?

38. I'VE BEEN WAITING HERE AN HOUR. I'M FREEZING MY ASS OFF.

39. I'M GONNA END UP TAKING A CAB, ALL RIGHT?

40. I'LL TALK TO YOU WHEN I GET IN.

41. WHERE'S THE GUY WHO WAS SUPPOSED TO MEET ME HERE?

42. DAMN.

43. I'M HERE, AN AMERICAN IN PARIS,

44. TO FIND SUPPORTING EVIDENCE FOR A DEEPLY FELT CONVICTION,

45. TO MAKE A DIFFICULT ARGUMENT

46. IN THESE UNPLEASANTLY FRANCOPHOBIC TIMES.

47. I CALL MY THESIS...

48. FRANCE NEEDS ME, I'M THINKING, NOW MORE THAN EVER.

49. WHY ME? BECAUSE I'M A COOK.

50. NOW, DON'T GET ME WRONG.

51. THE LAST THING PARIS NEEDS IS ME SLINGING STEAKS,

52. BUT AS A COOK I LIKE TO THINK

53. THAT I RECOGNIZE THE TRUE VISIONARY GLORY OF FRANCE.

54. HELL, COOKS MAY BE THE ONLY PEOPLE IN AMERICA RIGHT NOW

55. WHO CAN UNDERSTAND HOW FAR ASTRAY WE'VE GONE.

56. SURE, THE FRENCH ARE RENOWNED

57. FOR THEIR CULINARY TECHNIQUE AND INVENTION,

58. BUT EVEN MORE CRUCIAL, MORE PRECIOUS,

59. IS THE SENSUAL POINT OF VIEW BEHIND IT THAT DRIVES

60. NOT ONLY THEIR CUISINE BUT THEIR ENTIRE EXISTENCE.

61. IT MAY JUST SAVE THE WORLD.

62. SO HERE I AM.

63. BUT WHERE IS THIS GUY

64. MY FRENCH TEACHER WAS SUPPOSED TO SET ME UP WITH?

65. I WONDER IF THIS HAS ANYTHING TO DO WITH MY PERFORMANCE IN CLASS

66. BACK IN NEW YORK.

67. THINGS DIDN'T EXACTLY GET OFF TO A SMOOTH START.

68. I HAVE A HANGOVER. PLEASE KILL ME.

69. J'AI UN GUEULE DE BOIS. S'IL VOUS PLAIT TUE MOI.

70. TUE MOI.

71. S'IL VOUS PLAIT TUE MOI.

72. S'IL VOUS PLAIT TUE MOI.

73. NO, NO "TUE MOI." NO. TUE MOI.

74. MY FRENCH WAS A LITTLE RUSTY. OKAY, A LOT RUSTY.

75. SO I SIGNED MYSELF UP FOR A REFRESHER COURSE.

76. PARDON ME, BUT YOUR BAGUETTE IS POKING ME IN THE GENITALS.

77. OKAY, SO HOW WAS I SUPPOSED TO KNOW THIS GUY HAD A BROTHER

78. WHO WORKS THERE?

79. I'M NOT SURE I IMPRESSED HIM WITH MY COMMAND OF THE LANGUAGE.

80. I MEAN, I DID MY BEST TO APOLOGIZE.

81. AFTER ALL, I EXPLAINED, I WANTED TO EXPLORE THE PARIS OF LOCALS.

82. YOU KNOW, SHOW MY COUNTRYMEN WHY THE FRENCH DON'T SUCK,

83. BUT I'M BEGINNING TO THINK THAT MY GUIDE IS GONNA BE A NO-SHOW.

84. NO PROBLEM. I'LL DO THIS ON MY OWN.

85. PAGE 54 IN THE GUIDEBOOK.

86. PARIS — FRANCE'S 2,000-YEAR-OLD CAPITAL,

87. THE EIFFEL TOWER, CHAMPS-ELYSEES, THE LOUVRE,

88. NOTRE DAME.

89. CHECK IN TO YOUR HOTEL BUT GET IN LINE FOR THE TOWER EARLY,

90. AFTER MAKING DINNER RESERVATIONS IN ADVANCE.

91. WRONG. LET'S TRY THAT AGAIN.

92. AHH, PARIS.

93. CITY OF LIGHT...

94. CITY OF LOVE...

95. CITY OF BREAKFAST?

96. YES, PLEASE.

97. THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO DO THE INSTANT YOU ARRIVE IN PARIS

98. IS STOP, FIND SOMEPLACE INVITING,

99. AND SLIP COMFORTABLY INTO THE PARISIAN PACE OF LIFE.

100. S'IL VOUS PLAIT, UN CAFé CRèME...

101. JUS D'ORANGE, CROISSANT.

102. THE ROYAL, A TYPICAL NEIGHBORHOOD CAFE

103. IN THE SEVENTH DISTRICT,

104. ISN'T GOING TO ATTRACT A RUSH OF TOURISM,

105. BUT IT'S THE KIND OF LOCAL PLACE THAT'S A MANDATORY STAPLE

106. IN THE DAILY ROUTINE OF THE PARISIAN.

107. IT'S GOOD TO BE BACK IN CIVILIZATION.

108. HOW COME THE FRENCH AREN'T HUGE?

109. I MEAN, HOW COME THEY'RE STILL IN POSSESSION,

110. BY AND LARGE, OF NECKS,

111. SOMETHING IN SHORT SUPPLY IN MY COUNTRY?

112. I MEAN, THEY EAT SO WELL — DUCK FAT, CREAM, BUTTER.

113. HOW DO YOU EXPLAIN THIS?

114. MAYBE IT'S A TYPICALLY FRENCH HEALTHY BREAKFAST.

115. ALL THE ESSENTIAL COMPONENTS OF A HEALTHY BREAKFAST —

116. ORANGE JUICE, COFFEE, CROISSANT, AND, OF COURSE...

117. BUTTERY-FLAKY OFFSET WITH TARRY, NICOTINE-Y GOODNESS.

118. REMEMBER, KIDS, CIGARETTES CAN KILL.

119. LET'S FACE IT.

120. DO YOU REALLY NEED THE DENNY'S GRAND SLAM BREAKFAST?

121. A BIG STACK OF PANCAKES, BACON, TWO FRIED EGGS, HOME FRIES.

122. LET'S FACE IT, THE HOME FRIES AREN'T THAT GOOD ANYWAY,

123. ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU'RE LOOKING FORWARD

124. TO A MONSTER-SIZED LUNCH.

125. THE FRENCH TEND TO STRETCH OUT BREAKFAST, TOO.

126. YOU PUT IN AN HOUR DOING THIS, EASY.

127. A LITTLE PEOPLE-WATCHING, PET THE DOG, READ THE PAPER.

128. TAKE THOSE TYPICAL YOUNG FRENCH LADS OVER THERE, FOR EXAMPLE.

129. THEY HAVE AN APPRECIATION FOR LIFE IN THE MOMENT.

130. IT'S IMPORTANT TO SIT STILL, TO TAKE TIME,

131. TO NOTICE THE SIMPLE THINGS.

132. DAMN, I THINK THEY MADE ME.

133. OH, YEAH, THEY NOTICED ME. PROBABLY WANT MY AUTOGRAPH.

134. I'M PUBLISHED HERE, YOU KNOW.

135. I'D BETTER LEAVE BEFORE I GET MOBBED BY FANS.

136. MERCI, AU REVOIR.

137. AU REVOIR, MERCI, BONJOUR.

138. I'M BIG IN FRANCE.

139. WELL, OKAY, NOT EXACTLY JERRY LEWIS BIG,

140. MAYBE MICKEY ROURKE BIG.

141. HASSELHOFF BIG?

142. ALL RIGHT, NOW, BE CAREFUL.

143. SINCE YOU'VE SLOWED DOWN,

144. YOU'LL START TO NOTICE ALL SORTS OF THINGS AROUND YOU.

145. ONCE YOU ALLOW YOUR SENSES TO GUIDE YOU

146. AND NOT YOUR ITINERARY...

147. YOU MAY BEGIN TO FIND PLEASURE IN MANY THINGS

148. YOU WOULD ORDINARILY OVERLOOK —

149. THE MANY SIGHTS, SMELLS, AND TASTES ON THE STREETS OF PARIS.

150. DO TRY NOT TO GET RUN OVER WHILE GAWKING AT THINGS.

151. IT'S A DEAD GIVEAWAY YOU'RE AN AMERICAN.

152. YOU ARE NOW READY TO BEGIN TO GRAZE

153. THROUGH THE WONDROUS, SENSUAL FEASTS THAT ELUDE SO MANY OF US

154. WHEN WE TAKE TRIPS HERE.

155. BUT FIRST YOU'LL NEED A BASE OF OPERATIONS,

156. LIKE A COOL HOTEL HAUNTED BY THE GHOST OF A DEAD WRITER

157. WHO DRANK TOO MUCH ABSINTHE.

158. ALLEGEDLY, THIS ILLEGAL, PSYCHOACTIVE BEVERAGE

159. CAN STILL BE FOUND IN CERTAIN QUARTERS.

160. I FULLY INTEND TO INVESTIGATE.

161. SO, LET'S SAY YOU'RE LIKE ME.

162. YOU'RE IN PARIS,

163. AND YOU'VE UNDERGONE THE NECESSARY ATTITUDE ADJUSTMENT.

164. IT HELPS TO CHOOSE YOUR ACCOMMODATIONS WISELY —

165. SOMEPLACE WITH CHARACTER, SOMEPLACE WITH HISTORY,

166. IN A COOL NEIGHBORHOOD THAT LOOKS GOOD.

167. ME, I ALWAYS STAY AT L'HOTEL IN THE SAINT GERMAIN DU PRE,

168. A VERY DISCREET JOINT

169. KNOWN FOR BEING A LOVE SHACK TO THE TRAGICALLY HIP FOR AGES.

170. EVEN MORE IMPORTANTLY, IT HAS THE NECESSARY DISTINCTION

171. OF HAVING HAD FAMOUS PEOPLE DIE THERE.

172. IN 1900, AUTHOR OSCAR WILDE KICKED THE BUCKET IN ROOM 16,

173. THE SAME ROOM I'M STAYING IN, IN FACT.

174. THIS WAS HIS LAST BASE OF OPERATIONS

175. FOR A LEGENDARY 3-YEAR-BENDER THAT ENDED BADLY.

176. OH, WELL, I FULLY INTEND TO HONOR

177. OSCAR WILDE'S GOOD EXAMPLE,

178. BUT FIRST A LITTLE SHUT-EYE.

179. OKAY, FIRST LEAVE YOUR GUIDEBOOK IN YOUR HOTEL.

180. IT'S VERY UN-FRENCH.

181. PLEASURE IS FOUND IN UNEXPECTED PLACES.

182. JUST LET IT HAPPEN.

183. I FEEL, NOT UNUSUALLY FOR ME, A NATURAL COMPULSION

184. TO SEEK OUT THE DARK SIDE, THE FORBIDDEN,

185. WHICH IS TO SAY THE GOOD STUFF.

186. I NEED A DRINK.

187. THIS PLACE LOOKS STRANGELY FAMILIAR

188. AND LIKE MY KIND OF PLACE.

189. FOLLOW YOUR INSTINCTS. THAT'S WHAT I ALWAYS SAY.

190. WHAT COULD POSSIBLY GO WRONG?

191. A WHISKEY.

192. AMERICAN?

193. DID MY ACCENT GIVE ME AWAY?

194. PRETTY EASILY. IT'S AN ABSINTHE FOUNTAIN.

195. REALLY?

196. THIS IS THE BEVERAGE THAT ALLEGEDLY DROVE PEOPLE INSANE

197. AND TO DISSIPATION AND SUICIDE,

198. TO DESPAIR AND MURDER?

199. YEAH, A FUN DRINK. COOL.

200. I ALWAYS PICK GOOD BARS. WHAT'S YOUR NAME, MAN?

201. PETER. TONY.

202. NICE TO MEET YOU.

203. ABSINTHE.

204. THIS IS THE LEGENDARILY DESTRUCTIVE BEVERAGE

205. TASTING OF LIQUORICE AND EXOTIC AROMATICS.

206. ITS BIZARRE, HEROIN-LIKE RITUAL INVOLVING SUGAR AND WATER

207. NOT ONLY IMPROVES ITS FLAVOR BUT RESULTS IN A STRANGE ALCHEMY.

208. WITH THE CHANGE IN COLOR COMES THE RELEASE

209. OF THE SO-CALLED GREEN FAIRY...

210. THEN, REPUTEDLY, A SEDUCTIVE FOG OF HALLUCINATIONS

211. CAUSED BY THE PSYCHOACTIVE TOXIN IN WORMWOOD.

212. IT SUPPOSEDLY CAUSED A WHOLE GENERATION

213. OF WRITERS AND ARTISTS TO SUCCUMB TO MADNESS AND DEATH.

214. IT'S STILL ILLEGAL TO THIS DAY IN THE U.S.

215. WHEN DID THE NOTION BEGIN TO TAKE HOLD

216. THAT THIS WAS DANGEROUS AND UNUSUAL LIQUEUR?

217. IT WAS TOWARD THE END OF THE 19th CENTURY.

218. BETWEEN 1880 AND 1910,

219. YOU HAD WHAT THEY CALLED A COLLECTIVE BINGE

220. BECAUSE IT'S JUST TOO DAMN EASY TO DRINK.

221. OH.

222. THAT'S WHERE THE SPOON COMES IN WITH THE SUGAR,

223. BECAUSE WHEN YOU ADD SUGAR TO ABSINTHE,

224. YOU SENSE THE ALCOHOL IN IT EVEN LESS.

225. BECAUSE ABSINTHE WAS SO HIGH IN ALCOHOL,

226. IT WAS CONSIDERED TO BE THE BAD BOY OF ALL OF THEM.

227. SO, WHAT ABOUT THE HALLUCINATIONS, THE MADNESS?

228. WAS IT JUST GARDEN-VARIETY ALCOHOLISM?

229. IT DOES HAVE A CHEMICAL IN IT

230. WHICH CAN CAUSE EPILEPTIC FITS.

231. THE AMOUNT YOU HAVE TO TAKE

232. IS EQUIVALENT TO AROUND 200 GLASSES.

233. I THINK WE WILL FALL WELL SHORT OF THAT.

234. ALL RIGHT.

235. OH, YEAH, I SEE THE PROBLEM.

236. IT'S JUST LIKE DRINKING LEMONADE, BASICALLY.

237. YOU'RE LOOKING AT ABOUT 20%, 25% ALCOHOL.

238. TOMORROW, AS I WAKE UP IN A POOL OF MY OWN VOMIT,

239. THE FIRST WORDS OUT OF MY MOUTH WILL BE

240. "MMM, LIQUORICE-EY."

241. AT LEAST YOU'LL HAVE NICE BREATH.

242. THAT'S SO IMPORTANT.

243. YOU CAN'T SAY THAT WITH TEQUILA IN THE MORNING.

244. ARE THERE STILL ORIGINAL BOTTLES AROUND?

245. IT'S VERY, VERY DIFFICULT TO FIND,

246. BUT I HAPPEN TO HAVE A COUPLE OF BOTTLES.

247. OH, REALLY?

248. I DO.

249. AS IT TURNS OUT,

250. THIS GUY PETER IS AN ARTISANAL ABSINTHE DISTILLER.

251. HE EXPLAINS YOU CAN BUY ABSINTHE IN STORES ALL OVER FRANCE.

252. WELL, NOT ALL ABSINTHE.

253. HE TAKES ME TO A FRIEND'S SHOP

254. TO TRY A BOTTLE OF THE ORIGINAL OLD STUFF,

255. WHICH IS STILL ILLEGAL, EVEN IN FRANCE.

256. THIS IS A BOTTLE THAT DATES FROM ABOUT 1910.

257. NOW, IS THIS TECHNICALLY LEGAL?

258. THE PRODUCT THAT WE HAVE IN THE BOTTLE THERE

259. IS TECHNICALLY NOT LEGAL.

260. EUROPEAN LAWS ONLY ALLOW NEWLY PRODUCED ABSINTHE.

261. THE OLD STUFF KEEPS ITS BAD REPUTATION.

262. COOL. BREAKING THE LAW. OKAY, I'M PSYCHED.

263. FIRST OF ALL, YOU'RE GONNA SEE

264. THAT THE COLOR IS A NICE, KIND OF DEEP AMBER,

265. ALMOST A WHISKEY COLOR.

266. BUT ORIGINALLY THAT ABSINTHE WAS GREEN.

267. A FOG IS FORMED IN THE ABSINTHE

268. WHEN THE WATER MIXES WITH ITS ESSENTIAL OILS.

269. IT WILL START FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE GLASS

270. AND THEN WORK ITS WAY UP.

271. THIS IS WHAT GAVE RISE TO THE IDEA

272. OF THE FAIRY LEAVING THE DRINK.

273. I SUDDENLY FEEL LIKE I HAVE TO GO TO THE BATHROOM.

274. IT'S NICE. IT'S STRONG.

275. IT'S NOT BITTER AT ALL.

276. LIGHT, HERBAL FLAVORS ARE MIXED WITH MORE EARTHY ONES,

277. LIKE ANISE AND FENNEL.

278. TO HAPPINESS.

279. EIGHT OR NINE GLASSES OF ABSINTHE LATER —

280. WHO WAS REALLY COUNTING, ANYWAY? —

281. I STUMBLE OUT TO FIND IT RAINING,

282. SO I CATCH A TAXI, AN EASY WAY TO GET AROUND PARIS.

283. AS THE CITY OUTSIDE THE WINDSHIELD

284. BECOMES A WASH OF COLOR AND LIGHT, I FEEL GOOD.

285. I FEEL REALLY GOOD.

286. AND I REMEMBER THINKING SOMETHING LIKE,

287. "I FEEL A BIT LIGHTHEADED."

288. I WONDER IF IT'S THE ABSINTHE.

289. DAMN IT. DID I JUST THINK THAT OR SAY IT?

290. TROUBLE SLEEPING BACK AT THE HOTEL.

291. MAYBE I SHOULDN'T HAVE DRANK SO MUCH ABSINTHE.

292. IT OCCURS TO ME THAT I'M HERE

293. JUST AFTER THE ANNIVERSARY OF OSCAR WILDE'S DEATH.

294. AS HE LAY HERE DYING, HE SAID,

295. "MY WALLPAPER AND I ARE FIGHTING A DUEL TO THE DEATH.

296. ONE OF US HAS GOT TO GO."

297. OSCAR WAS AN ABSINTHE DRINKER.

298. OSCAR?

299. I'M STARTING TO FEEL A LITTLE STRANGE.

300. MAYBE I SHOULDN'T HAVE DRANK SO MUCH ABSINTHE.

301. ANOTHER GREAT FEATURE OF L'HOTEL —

302. A BASEMENT POOL, PERFECT FOR CLEARING YOUR HEAD.

303. AFTER BOBBING AROUND FOR 20 OR 30 MINUTES

304. AND SOME QUIET REFLECTION,

305. I THINK I KNOW WHAT'LL SET ME RIGHT —

306. TOMORROW, A GARGANTUAN MEAL AT A 100-YEAR-OLD BISTRO —

307. A TYPICAL PARISIAN LUNCH.

308. WHAT THE — HEY, LOOK OUT!

309. I DEFINITELY NEED SOMETHING TO TAKE THE EDGE OFF.

310. TO THE FRENCH, THE SENSES ARE EVERYTHING.

311. THEY'RE ALMOST THE SOLE REASON FOR HUMAN EXISTENCE,

312. AND OF PARTICULAR IMPORTANCE IS THE SENSE OF TASTE.

313. TODAY I HOPE TO BETTER EXPLAIN THE ORIGINS

314. OF THIS ENLIGHTENED PHILOSOPHY.

315. THAT IS, IF MY OWN SENSES AREN'T ALREADY TOO NUMB.

316. UH, ISN'T IT SUPPOSED TO BE APRIL WHEN YOU COME TO PARIS?

317. SEE TONY.

318. SEE TONY CONFUSED, STANDING AROUND FREEZING.

319. I NEED A HOT CHOCOLATE AND A COUPLE OF FAT CHICKS.

320. I'M COLD.

321. BEING DETERMINED TO CARRY ON,

322. I DECIDE TO VISIT WHAT I HUMBLY CONSIDER

323. TO BE ONE OF THE MOST HISTORICALLY SIGNIFICANT SPOTS

324. IN ALL OF WESTERN CIVILIZATION.

325. SO, HERE WE ARE, ALL THAT'S LEFT OF LES HALLES,

326. ONCE THE THRIVING AND RATHER INCREDIBLE

327. CENTRAL MARKETPLACE OF PARIS.

328. IT WAS A GROUNDBREAKING, REVOLUTIONARY DEVELOPMENT

329. OF CENTRALIZING THE MARKET INTO HALLES,

330. OR — THE CLOSEST WORD I CAN THINK OF — PAVILIONS.

331. THESE VAST WROUGHT-IRON AND GLASS STRUCTURES,

332. EACH ONE DEDICATED TO A DIFFERENT TYPE OF FOOD.

333. SO YOU'D HAVE THE MEAT PAVILION, PRODUCE,

334. HOOVES, GUTS, AND SNOUTS PAVILION.

335. I CANNOT DESCRIBE TO YOU HOW HUGE

336. THE ORIGINAL LES HALLES WAS —

337. ENDLESS SUBCELLARS AND UNDERGROUND VAULTS.

338. ABOVE GROUND, AVENUES THAT RADIATE OUT

339. FOR HORSE-DRAWN CARTS.

340. IT WOULD STRETCH ALL THE WAY OUT INTO THE COUNTRYSIDE AND BEYOND.

341. ZOLA REFERRED TO IT AS THE BELLY OF PARIS.

342. PRIOR TO THAT, BY THE WAY, IT WAS WHERE THEY LOPPED OFF

343. THE HEADS OF THE ARISTOCRACY ON THE GUILLOTINE.

344. THIS IS A BIG PUBLIC SQUARE

345. WHERE HORDES OF HOOTING PROLETARIAT

346. WOULD WATCH THE HEADS ROLL INTO BASKETS.

347. GOD, THOSE WERE HAPPIER TIMES.

348. YOU KNOW, IF ENRON HAD EXISTED BACK IN THE MID-18th CENTURY,

349. THEY'D LOP THEIR HEADS OFF IN PUBLIC.

350. IF YOU CLOSE YOUR EYES, IMAGINE,

351. YOU COULD ALMOST HEAR THE APPRECIATIVE ROAR OF THE CROWD

352. AS YET ANOTHER ROYALIST HEAD FALLS OFF THE GUILLOTINE

353. AND ROLLS INTO THE BASKET.

354. WHETHER YOU'VE HAD A HARD DAY CHOPPING OFF HEADS

355. OR JUST SLICING UP BEEF, YOU WORK UP A MEAN APPETITE,

356. SO SMALL BISTROS SPRANG UP ALL AROUND LES HALLES,

357. BISTROS LIKE THE 100-YEAR-OLD CHEZ DENISE.

358. LET'S SEE — KIDNEYS IN MUSTARD SAUCE,

359. FOIE DE VEAU, THAT'S CALVES' LIVER ANGLAISE.

360. BRAINS? OH, LAMB BRAINS.

361. THAT'S GOTTA BE GOOD.

362. NECESSITY IS THE ENGINE

363. THAT HAS DRIVEN ALL GREAT CUISINES THROUGHOUT HISTORY.

364. WHILE THE DUMB-ASS ARISTOCRACY

365. WAS GORGING ITSELF ON FILET MIGNON AND LOBSTER,

366. THE MASSES HAD TO LEARN HOW TO COOK,

367. HOW TO TAKE A CHUNK OF NECK OR SHANK

368. AND TURN IT INTO SOMETHING MAGICAL,

369. AND OVER POTS OF STEAMING ECONOMY CUTS,

370. THEY PLANNED A REVOLUTION.

371. WELL, TODAY, AT CHEZ DENISE,

372. THEY PROUDLY CONTINUE THE TRADITION

373. OF SERVING THESE HISTORIC BLUE-COLLAR CREATIONS.

374. S'IL VOUS PLAIT, BLANQUETTE DE VEAU.

375. MON AMI.

376. I LOVE MY JOB.

377. I'LL DRINK A WHOLE BOTTLE,

378. AND THEN WE'LL GO TERRORIZE JOHNNY DEPP.

379. SO DUDE, LIKE, WHY'D YOU MOVE TO, LIKE, FRANCE, MAN?

380. I'M SURE HE'D APPRECIATE THAT, DON'T YOU?

381. NOW, LOOK CLOSELY.

382. WHEN YOU'RE EATING IN FRANCE,

383. YOU'LL NOTICE SOMETHING DIFFERENT.

384. IT'S A FAR CRY FROM WHAT WE SO OFTEN FIND OURSELVES DOING,

385. JOYLESSLY CHAWING AT OUR FOOD

386. LIKE UNAPPRECIATIVE DOOMED CATTLE.

387. BONJOUR!

388. TO THE FRENCH, A MEAL IS NOT JUST A MEAL.

389. IT MEANS SOMETHING.

390. THERE'S A DIALOGUE BETWEEN THE CHEF, THE DISH, AND THE DINER.

391. THERE'S A LOOK OF EXCITEMENT AS THE FOOD ARRIVES,

392. OF ANTICIPATION.

393. FOOD IS IMPORTANT.

394. IT'S PART OF THEIR COLLECTIVE HISTORY.

395. MON AMI.

396. LOOK AT THIS. THIS IS LUNCH FOR ONE.

397. THIS IS, LIKE, GINORMOUS.

398. SO THIS IS BLANQUETTE DE VEAU, BLANQUETTE OF VEAL.

399. "BLANC" MEANING WHITE.

400. LOOK AT THIS — BIG HUNKS OF VEAL,

401. SLOWLY, SLOWLY COOKED IN EITHER STOCK,

402. OR MORE OFTEN THAN NOT, WATER.

403. THE SAUCE IS ENRICHED WITH CREAM, SOMETIMES EGG.

404. I'M GUESSING THIS RECIPE HAS BASICALLY NOT CHANGED

405. IN OVER 100 YEARS.

406. MAN, IS THAT GOOD.

407. SEE, FOR ME THIS IS THE TRUE AND ENDURING GLORY OF FRANCE,

408. THIS KIND OF FOOD.

409. THE HELL WITH PAINFULLY STACKED TOWERS OF FOIE GRAS,

410. FOOD TORTURED AND TORMENTED INTO METAL RINGS

411. SO IT STANDS UP STIFF.

412. IF IT TAKES THE WAITER LONGER TO DESCRIBE THE DISH

413. THAN IT TAKES ME TO EAT IT,

414. SOMETHING'S WRONG HERE.

415. MON AMI.

416. HE KEEPS CALLING ME MON AMI.

417. WHY IS IT THAT WHEN HE SAYS "MON AMI,"

418. HE MAKES IT SOUND LIKE

419. THIS IS A RUM BABA, AND ALL THAT LIQUID THERE,

420. THAT'S RUM THAT HAS NOT ALREADY BEEN ABSORBED

421. BY THIS RUM-SATURATED DESSERT.

422. LATER I'LL BE DOING THE FIRST LAP OF THE TOUR DE FRANCE.

423. SEE, LANCE ARMSTRONG MAY WIN.

424. THE OTHER GUYS HAVE A LOT MORE FUN.

425. OH, YEAH, THAT'S THE TICKET.

426. 12:45 —

427. I'VE ALREADY EATEN, BY VOLUME, IT'S LIKE A SMALL ECONOMY CAR,

428. HALF A BOTTLE OF WINE, A FAIRLY GOOD PORTION OF RUM.

429. I'M GUESSING THAT LATE IN THE AFTERNOON,

430. PRODUCTIVITY LEVELS DECLINE SLIGHTLY.

431. CERTAINLY BY THE TIME EVERYONE DRINKS THEIR DIGESTIF,

432. BECAUSE IN FRANCE THEY BELIEVE, QUITE CORRECTLY,

433. THAT SPIRITS AID DIGESTION.

434. I COME HERE SINCE 30 YEARS.

435. 30 YEARS OF DENISE, IT'S OKAY — NOT BAD.

436. NOT BAD.

437. AS I DIGEST, MY WAITER — YOU KNOW, MON AMI —

438. SUGGESTS THAT I MIGHT LIKE TO SEE THEIR WINE CELLAR,

439. AND THE BARTENDER INSISTS THAT I CLIMB DOWN BELOW THE RESTAURANT.

440. OKAY, OKAY.

441. THERE'S A LOT OF FOLKLORE

442. ASSOCIATED WITH A SPOT LIKE THIS,

443. BECAUSE THERE ARE A LOT OF UNDERGROUND VAULTS.

444. IT'S VERY, VERY OLD.

445. WE'RE TALKING LIKE 1500s HERE, DUDE.

446. IN CASE OF WAR, WE CAN DRINK.

447. IN CASE OF WAR, WE CAN DRINK.

448. NOW, THAT'S FRENCH,

449. AND AT A PERFECT 52 DEGREES YEAR-ROUND,

450. ALL THESE RARE BOTTLES OF WINE WILL LAST INDEFINITELY.

451. BUT THE GROUND BELOW PARIS HAS BEEN USED

452. FOR MORE THAN WINE STORAGE.

453. IN THE 1780s, IT WAS OVERFLOWING WITH CORPSES.

454. IT GOT SO BAD THEY MOVED THE REMAINS

455. OF MILLIONS OF DEAD PARISIANS TO UNDERGROUND QUARRIES

456. KNOWN AS CATACOMBS.

457. IT'S JOAN RIVERS.

458. APPARENTLY THEY MISSED A FEW.

459. LARA FLYNN BOYLE.

460. UH, GARCON?

461. OH, WAITER? DENISE?

462. SOMETHING SMELLS LIKE...

463. I'M IN THE SEWERS.

464. GREAT.

465. I WONDER IF THIS HAS ANYTHING TO DO WITH ME BEING AMERICAN.

466. I WONDER IF THEY'RE STILL PISSED

467. ABOUT THE WHOLE "FREEDOM FRIES" THING.

468. THERE'S ACTUALLY A GROUP OF PEOPLE CALLED THE CATAPHILES

469. WHO WANDER AROUND DOWN HERE FOR FUN.

470. THERE ARE OVER 1,300 MILES OF SEWER TUNNELS,

471. 124 MILES OF SUBWAY TRACKS,

472. 185 MILES OF CATACOMBS FILLED WITH DEAD BODIES...

473. AND THEY CRISSCROSS RANDOMLY.

474. THEY SAY THE NAZIS BUILT SECRET BUNKERS DOWN HERE

475. DURING THE OCCUPATION.

476. SO, PARIS IS WHERE?

477. AHH, LOOK — THE ENTRANCE TO THE PUBLIC SEWER MUSEUM.

478. OH, WELL, AT LEAST I'M UP AT THE PERFECT HOUR

479. TO EXPLORE RUNGIS MARKET.

480. THAT'S THE MODERN REPLACEMENT FOR LES HALLES,

481. AND IT'S GAME SEASON,

482. AND THAT MEANS FUR, FEATHERS, AND FLEECE.

483. AFTER A NIGHT SPENT WANDERING WITLESSLY

484. THROUGH THE OOZE OF THE PARISIAN SEWER SYSTEM,

485. I'VE EMERGED INTO THAT TRANQUIL QUIET

486. BETWEEN THE RETIRING OF THE NIGHT OWLS

487. AND THE RISING OF THE MORNING WORKERS,

488. WHEN ALL PARIS SLEEPS...

489. UNLESS, THAT IS, YOU WORK IN THE FOOD INDUSTRY.

490. OH, YEAH, 5:30 IN THE MORNING.

491. HERE WE ARE, THE ROMANTIC PART OF TOWN — RUNGIS MARKET.

492. THE NEW BELLY OF PARIS, WHERE THE FOOD COMES FROM.

493. THIS IS THE MODERN REPLACEMENT

494. FOR THE HISTORIC BUT OVERBURDENED LES HALLES MARKET.

495. AFTER HOSING DOWN, I GET OUTFITTED

496. WITH THE LATEST IN MANDATORY MEAT-MARKET CHIC.

497. HI, I'M ANTHONY BOURDAIN FOR SCOTT TISSUE.

498. TRIPLE PLY, BABY, FOR COMFORT.

499. DON'T HAVE A SQUARE TO SPARE?

500. NO PROBLEM WITH THE LATEST PARISIAN FASHIONS.

501. I'M NOT A DOCTOR, BUT I PLAY ONE ON TV.

502. WHERE'S MY RUBBER GLOVES?

503. I REALLY FEEL LIKE I SHOULD BE GOING — SNAP.

504. TURN LEFT AND COUGH.

505. ONE OF MY CONSTANT COMPLAINTS WITH MY COUNTRYMEN

506. IS THAT ON VACATION WE SO OFTEN TRAVEL LIKE SHEEP,

507. BLISSFULLY ALLOWING OURSELVES TO BE HERDED

508. FROM LOCATION TO LOCATION DURING PRESCRIBED HOURS,

509. NEVER HAVING REAL FUN OR SEEING THE REAL THING.

510. BUT IF YOU REALLY WANT TO UNDERSTAND THE SOUL OF A PEOPLE,

511. SOMETIMES YOU JUST HAVE TO GET UP EARLY

512. AND GET AWAY FROM THE TOUR BUS.

513. THE BEST PLACE TO DO THAT IS ALMOST ALWAYS THE MARKET.

514. WHEN LES HALLES CLOSED, THIS BECAME THE NEW BELLY OF PARIS.

515. THIS IS THE MORE MODERN VERSION, ESSENTIALLY.

516. EXACTLY — PRETTY MUCH SET UP IN THE SAME WAYS.

517. YOU'VE GOT A LOT OF THE SAME PEOPLE,

518. A LOT OF THE SAME FAMILIES WHO'VE BEEN THERE FOREVER,

519. AND THEY JUST MOVED OVER HERE NOW.

520. LOUISA IS A FELLOW COOK,

521. CURRENTLY WORKING IN A BUNCH OF 3-STAR JOINTS HERE IN PARIS,

522. AND SOMEONE UNIQUELY SUITED TO SHOW ME AROUND RUNGIS.

523. THE AMAZING THING IS THAT THEY SAID

524. THAT THEY PRETTY MUCH CLOSED LES HALLES,

525. MOVED EVERYTHING IN ONE NIGHT.

526. ONE NIGHT?

527. WE'RE TALKING 15,000 EMPLOYEES

528. WITH MILLIONS OF TONS OF FOOD

529. OCCUPYING 1.2 SQUARE MILES.

530. IN FRANCE, FOOD DISTRIBUTION IS A CALLING.

531. IT BETTER BE FRESH, IT BETTER BE GOOD,

532. AND IT BETTER BE... FURRY?

533. WILD BOAR.

534. I'M IN SHOCK THAT IT CAN COME IN STILL IN THE FUR.

535. YEAH?

536. THEY LOOK MEAN.

537. THESE GUYS WILL CHARGE YOU, I'M TOLD.

538. YOU DO NOT WANT ONE OF THESE THINGS GNAWING ON YOUR CALF

539. OR ANY OTHER PART OF YOUR BODY.

540. THE FUR MEANS FRESHNESS.

541. HAS FOUR LEGS, SLOWER AND STUPIDER THAN YOU,

542. AND TASTES REASONABLY GOOD.

543. PASS THE SALT.

544. I LOVE HOW THEY PACKAGE IT FOR THE HOLIDAYS, YOU KNOW?

545. LET'S PUT IT THIS WAY, KIDS —

546. IF YOUR PRESENTS ARE A LITTLE LATE THIS YEAR,

547. NOW YOU KNOW WHY.

548. SANTA CUT RUDOLPH'S HEAD OFF.

549. BAD SANTA.

550. OKAY, BEFORE I GET 6,000 LETTERS FROM ANIMAL-RIGHTS ACTIVISTS,

551. I HUMBLY SUGGEST THE FRENCH ARE MUCH MORE RESPECTFUL

552. THAN WE ARE.

553. THEY DON'T WASTE HERE.

554. THEY RESPECT THE INGREDIENT.

555. THIS IS NOT FACTORY-FARMED FOOD.

556. I LIKE THE PLUMAGE.

557. I KNOW.

558. OH, YEAH.

559. THOSE ARE BEAUTIFUL.

560. HERE, FOOD IS NOT SOMETHING

561. MEANT TO BE SHRINK-WRAPPED INTO ANONYMOUS PARCELS,

562. IDENTIFIABLE ONLY BY PRE-PRINTED LABELS.

563. IT'S SOMETHING TO BE RESPECTED AND CELEBRATED FOR WHAT IT IS.

564. HERE AT THE GOOD TIME BECAUSE IT'S REALLY —

565. RIGHT IN THE HEART OF GAME SEASON.

566. EXACTLY, EXACTLY.

567. WE DON'T REALLY HAVE THIS KIND OF SEASONALITY

568. IN AMERICAN MEAT MARKETS.

569. YOU KNOW, IT'S GAME SEASON.

570. TIME TO EAT GAME, A LOT OF GAME.

571. THAT'S VERY FRENCH, YOU KNOW?

572. YOU EAT WHAT'S GOOD WHEN IT'S GOOD.

573. PIGEON. LITTLE KNOWN FACT —

574. PIGEONS YOU SEE IN NEW YORK, IN YOUR LOCAL PARK,

575. WERE ORIGINALLY IMPORTED TO AMERICA AS FOOD,

576. AND THEY'RE QUITE DELICIOUS.

577. I'M A LITTLE HUNGRY.

578. I'M GUESSING THAT BREAKFAST AROUND HERE,

579. I'M GUESSING MEAT IS INVOLVED.

580. I'M UP FOR A ROAST-BEEF SANDWICH.

581. OKAY, ME TOO.

582. WELCOME TO BUTCHERLAND, PARIS'S ONLY ALL-MEAT-WORKER BAR

583. IN THE FASHIONABLE RUNGIS MARKET DISTRICT.

584. OPEN LATE TILL 9:00 A.M. DON'T FORGET YOUR BLOODY APRON.

585. OUI, BONJOUR, MADAME.

586. PETIT SANDWICH ROSBIF, S'IL VOUS PLAIT?

587. ANOTHER PRIME EXAMPLE OF EATING WHAT'S GOOD WHERE IT'S GOOD.

588. WE'RE IN A GIGANTIC WAREHOUSE FULL OF PREMIUM MEAT.

589. MERCI.

590. MUSTARD ONLY FOR YOU.

591. SO, WHAT DO YOU THINK'S ON THE BREAKFAST MENU?

592. OH, YEAH, THAT IS THE BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS.

593. CHEERS.

594. CHEERS.

595. THAT'S A HEALTHY BREAKFAST.

596. YEAH CHEERIOS.

597. SEE, THIS REALLY IS A MOOD IMPROVER, I GOTTA TELL YA,

598. AND I CAN USE MY JACKET AS A NAPKIN.

599. WHAT'S FRENCH ABOUT THIS ROOM?

600. LITERALLY FROM THE GROUND UP, YOU KNOW?

601. THE FLOOR IS COVERED WITH CIGARETTE BUTTS.

602. THE FACT THAT THERE IS SUCH CONVIVIALITY, YOU KNOW?

603. THERE'S NOT MUCH OF A SENSE OF URGENCY OUT THERE,

604. BUT IN HERE THEY'RE FREAKING OUT.

605. "WHERE'S MY WINE? GIVE ME MY SANDWICH."

606. DRINKING WINE AT... 7:00 IN THE MORNING.

607. THIS IS AFTER WORK FOR MOST OF THESE GUYS.

608. THIS IS DURING WORK.

609. IF I WAS A GUY RUNNING ONE OF THE STALLS OUT THERE

610. I'D BE LIKE "WHAT ARE YOU DOING IN THERE DRINKING WINE?"

611. BUT THEY'RE ALL TOTALLY COOL ABOUT IT,

612. AND THEY'RE PROBABLY IN HERE WHERE THEIR BOSS IS,

613. AND THEIR BOSSES PROBABLY REALIZE IT'S A GOOD THING

614. FOR THEM TO HAVE A GLASS OF WINE OR TWO.

615. OH, YEAH, THE DAY STRETCHES OUT BEFORE ME

616. IN A MUCH MORE FAVORABLE LIGHT NOW.

617. PARISIANS UNDERSTANDABLY TEND TO GET SENTIMENTAL

618. WHEN THINKING BACK ON THE ORIGINAL LES HALLES MARKETPLACE,

619. BUT IT DID HAVE A DARKER SIDE,

620. A NASTY LITTLE PROBLEM THAT CONTRIBUTED TO ITS DEMISE.

621. IN A WORD — RATS.

622. LOTS OF RATS.

623. HI, I'M ROCCO DiSPIRITO.

624. I'D LIKE TO INVITE YOU TO MY NEW THEME RESTAURANT,

625. RAT KEBAB, RATS-A-RONI, RATATOUILLE,

626. AND IT'S ALL HERE — BRAISED, BROILED, GRILLED.

627. BE SURE TO DROP BY OUR ALL-YOU-CAN-EAT MOUSE BAR.

628. YOU'LL GET YOUR CHOICE OF DRESSING.

629. BY THE WAY, THOSE AREN'T CURRANTS.

630. THOSE ARE MOUSE DROPPINGS.

631. ROCCO'S RATS-A-RIFFIC RESTAURANT.

632. IT'S RATS-A-LICIOUS.

633. ALL RIGHT, ENOUGH SHOPPING.

634. AT THIS VERY MOMENT,

635. BEHIND THOUSANDS OF DOORS ALL OVER PARIS,

636. THEY'RE COOKING FOOD.

637. THE QUESTION IS, WHICH ONE TO OPEN?

638. IT'S 10:00 P.M., THE PARISIAN DINNER HOUR,

639. AND YOU'RE HUNGRY.

640. SO HOW DO YOU BEGIN TO DINE LIKE THEY DO?

641. STOP PLAYING BY YOUR OWN RULES.

642. IT'S A COMMON TRAVELER'S DILEMMA.

643. YOU HEAR ABOUT A LOCAL JOINT YOU'VE JUST GOT TO CHECK OUT.

644. AND, WELL, YOU HESITATE. YOU DON'T HAVE THE STONES.

645. IT'S NOT EASY PUSHING YOUR WAY

646. THROUGH THE FRONT DOOR OF SOME NEW PLACE.

647. YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT WAITS FOR YOU.

648. IS IT GONNA BE ONE OF THOSE COWBOY MOMENTS,

649. WHERE YOU WALK IN AND EVERYBODY TURNS AROUND AND LOOKS AT YOU?

650. YOU CAN'T TURN ON YOUR HEELS THEN

651. AND SAY, "OOPS, WRONG PLACE," AND LEAVE.

652. YOU'RE IN.

653. ONCE IN, ESPECIALLY IN A PLACE LIKE CHEZ ROBERT & LOUISE,

654. YOU'RE REWARDED WITH A TRULY LOCAL EXPERIENCE.

655. SADLY, ROBERT HAS PASSED AWAY,

656. BUT MADAME LOUISE STILL QUIETLY CARRIES ON

657. THEIR MANY-YEAR LEGACY OF COOKING HOMESTYLE COUNTRY FOOD.

658. MONSIEUR, BON APPéTIT.

659. I'M JOINED BY MY PARISIAN FRIEND ALEX,

660. JUST BACK FROM A TRIP ABROAD AND HUNGRY FOR A TASTE OF HOME.

661. IS THIS AN UNUSUAL ARRANGEMENT, THIS TYPE OF PLACE?

662. IS THIS OLD-SCHOOL?

663. IT'S OLD-SCHOOL.

664. IT'S A BASTION OF FRENCH CULINARY TRADITION.

665. IT WOULD BE IMPOSSIBLE TO HAVE A BUSINESS LIKE THIS IN THE STATES.

666. A WOODBURNING FIRE — ILLEGAL.

667. THE MEAT — ILLEGAL. THE DOG — ILLEGAL.

668. THE CHEESE SITTING OUT UNCOVERED — ILLEGAL.

669. BASICALLY, EVERYTHING THAT MAKES THIS PLACE GOOD

670. WOULD BE ILLEGAL IN THE STATES.

671. IT'S ALWAYS BEEN THE SAME, AND IT JUST —

672. THE SIMPLICITY AND TRADITIONAL CUISINE THAT THEY COOK

673. IS THE KEY TO THEIR SUCCESS.

674. CHEFS PLAY THIS GAME WHERE THEY ASK EACH OTHER,

675. "WHAT WOULD BE YOUR LAST MEAL ON DEATH ROW?"

676. ALMOST ALWAYS, THE ANSWER IS SOMETHING SIMPLE

677. AND HEARTY THAT MOM MADE.

678. WELL, HERE THEY SERVE

679. WHAT LITTLE FRENCH BOYS WANTED FOR DINNER.

680. THAT IS REALLY SEXY-LOOKING.

681. THIS IS BOUDIN NOIR.

682. IT'S BASICALLY A BLOOD SAUSAGE

683. MADE FROM PIG'S BLOOD AND ONIONS.

684. CRISPY ON THE OUTSIDE,

685. AND IT'S ALMOST CREAMY IN THE CENTER.

686. FRIGHTENING TO THE UNINITIATED,

687. BUT, MAN, ONCE YOU EAT IT, YOU'RE HOOKED.

688. THIS IS FROMAGE DE TETE, WHICH IS HEAD CHEESE.

689. YOU BASICALLY COOK YOUR PIG'S HEAD

690. AND YOU STRIP OFF ALL THE MEAT, THE TONGUE, EVERYTHING,

691. AND THE PACK IT INTO A TUREEN WITH SOME ASPIC.

692. THERE YOU GO.

693. ASPIC IS A CLEAR MEAT JELLY OR GELATINIZED BROTH.

694. THIS IS SERIOUSLY OLD-SCHOOL.

695. YOU'RE NOT GONNA FIND THIS NEXT TO THE JALAPEñO POPPERS

696. AT TGI McFUNSTER'S.

697. OH, GOOD. IS THE COTE DE BOEUF READY?

698. THIS COTE DE BOEUF —

699. BASICALLY A MASSIVE RIB STEAK FOR TWO.

700. A LITTLE SEL GRIS HERE, A LITTLE GRAY SEA SALT.

701. I GUESS THE POTATOES ARE COOKED WITH GOOSE GREASE.

702. AND THAT'S THE BEST.

703. THIS IS MY IDEA OF THE PERFECT PLATE.

704. IN A WOODEN CUTTING BOARD WITH A LITTLE GUTTER IN IT

705. FOR THE BLOOD TO RUN INTO.

706. ALL PLATES SHOULD BE LIKE THIS.

707. I LOVE THIS WHOLE NOTION

708. OF THE DARK STREET, NO BIG SIGN,

709. CURTAINS DRAWN OUT FRONT,

710. STEP INSIDE, YOU'RE IN ANOTHER WORLD.

711. I MEAN, THIS IS THE WAY TO EAT. IT'S ABOUT FOOD.

712. LUCKY TO BE BORN A FRENCHMAN, WHEN IT COMES TO FOOD.

713. SOMETIMES YOU SEE THE UNINVITING DOOR

714. AND JUST HAVE TO GO THROUGH IT.

715. 3:00 A.M. WHAT TO DO, WHAT TO DO?

716. NOT QUITE READY TO GO BACK TO THE HOTEL

717. AND TANGLE WITH OSCAR WILDE AGAIN.

718. LET'S SEE — WHO'S UP AT THIS HOUR?

719. I SMELL FRESH BREAD BAKING.

720. IS THERE ANYTHING MORE EMBLEMATIC,

721. MORE CENTRAL TO FRANCE'S GREATNESS,

722. THAN THE APPRECIATION OF LONG, THIN, CRUSTY LOAVES

723. OF BRILLIANTLY MADE BREAD?

724. THE BAGUETTE.

725. THERE'S ONLY TWO THINGS WRONG WITH BAKERS.

726. ONE, I CAN'T DO WHAT THEY DO,

727. AND, TWO, THEY GET UP TOO DAMN EARLY IN THE MORNING.

728. THINGS TO DO — A GOOD CUP OF COFFEE.

729. MY COFFEE IS VERY IMPORTANT.

730. BOULANGER — THAT'S "BAKERS" TO YOU,

731. LIVE LIFE IN THE SHADOWS,

732. TOILING AWAY IN THE PREDAWN HOURS.

733. THEY'RE A PASSIONATE BREED.

734. PASCAL PINEAU IS A PRIME EXAMPLE.

735. BOND, JAMES BOND.

736. EXCUSE ME, I DIDN'T TAKE MY MEDICINE THIS MORNING.

737. HE HAS NOT TAKEN HIS VALIUM.

738. PASCAL WORKED AS A CHEF INSTRUCTOR

739. AT THE WORLD-RENOWNED CORDON BLEU,

740. LEFT TO OPEN UP A BAKERY WITH HIS BROTHER, JEAN-MARC.

741. JEAN-MARC IS A BUSINESSMAN, A LITTLE BIT HE'S THE BRAIN.

742. I AM THE HANDS.

743. THIS IS A MAN WITH A CALLING —

744. TO MAKE GREAT PASTRIES AND GREAT BREAD.

745. THAT'S WHERE THE DOUGH STARTS, RIGHT THERE.

746. NOTICE THAT BAKERS ALWAYS HAVE BIG UPPER-BODY STRENGTH,

747. BIG ARMS AND SHOULDERS AND FOREARMS.

748. WHILE DRUNK AND BELLIGERENT, NEVER MESS WITH A BAKER.

749. ONCE THEY GET THEIR THUMBS AROUND YOUR NECK, YOU'RE TOAST.

750. I'M GETTING HUNGRY, DUDE.

751. IN BAKE SHOP AT SCHOOL,

752. EVERYBODY GAINED, LIKE, EIGHT POUNDS,

753. BECAUSE YOU'RE STARVING FIRST THING IN THE MORNING.

754. YOU HAVEN'T HAD ANYTHING, AND IT STARTS REALLY EARLY.

755. IN FRANCE THE MOST POPULAR IS THE BAGUETTE.

756. THESE KIND OF BAGUETTE IS TRADITIONAL BAGUETTE.

757. WE'RE FOLLOWING THE WHOLE PROCESS.

758. LAST NIGHT THE DOUGH WAS MADE.

759. THE WHOLE BATCH OF DOUGH...

760. SCALED TODAY...

761. FORMED...

762. PROOFED...

763. THE INDIVIDUAL LOAVES ALLOWED TO RISE.

764. HOW MANY BAGUETTE DO YOU SELL EVERY DAY?

765. ABOUT 200.

766. PROFIT MARGIN ON BREAD IS...

767. FINALLY IT GOES IN THE OVEN.

768. I HAVE TO BELIEVE THAT MONEY ISN'T PASCAL'S PRIME MOTIVATION.

769. IT'S PROBABLY THE CRAZED, HELL-BENT FOCUS ON QUALITY,

770. ON BAKING REALLY GOOD BREAD.

771. THAT MUST BE WHAT GETS HIM OUT OF BED AT THIS OBSCENE HOUR.

772. COOKING TIME IS ABOUT 20 MINUTES.

773. THAT'S JUST GOT TO BE ONE OF THE BEST SMELLS ON EARTH.

774. 10 MINUTES.

775. THIS IS A MYSTERY ABOUT THE FRENCH

776. THAT I'M ALWAYS CURIOUS ABOUT.

777. THEY ALWAYS KNOW WHEN THE BREAD IS COMING OUT.

778. I NEVER KNOW THE SCHEDULE, BUT THE FRENCH ALWAYS KNOW.

779. THEY'RE LIKE CRACKHEADS FOR THE PAIN AU RAISIN.

780. "WHERE IS IT? WHERE IS IT?

781. IT TAKES A SPECIAL PERSON

782. TO MAKE THE VERY SIMPLE THINGS CORRECTLY.

783. THAT'S WORTH WAITING FOR. THAT'S GOOD.

784. SO BEAUTIFUL.

785. BREAD IS EXISTENTIAL FOR THE FRENCH —

786. I EAT BREAD, THEREFORE I AM.

787. MERCI BIEN. MERCI BIEN.

788. IT'S NOT JUST A PIECE OF BREAD. IT'S A PIECE OF FRANCE.

789. IT'S TIME FOR MY FINAL STOP.

790. THE MOST QUINTESSENTIALLY PARISIAN OF ALL PLACES

791. IS ALSO THE MOST SURPRISING

792. BECAUSE YOU CAN VISIT IT AT HOME.

793. IT'S NO ACCIDENT THAT THE INSTITUTION, THE CAFE,

794. IS SO CLOSELY ASSOCIATED WITH THE FRENCH.

795. WHAT DO WE HAVE HERE?

796. WE HAVE A CUP OF COFFEE AND A HAM SANDWICH,

797. BASICALLY A ROW OF CHAIRS ALL POINTING IN ONE DIRECTION,

798. A LITTLE TABLE STARING OUT ONTO THE STREET.

799. WHAT A SIMPLE THING.

800. SITTING IN A CHAIR

801. AND OBSERVE THE SIMPLEST OF LIFE'S PLEASURES.

802. AND, YET, FOR MOST PARISIANS OR MANY PARISIANS,

803. THIS CAN BE AN AFTERNOON'S ENTERTAINMENT.

804. I THINK THIS GETS RIGHT TO THE KERNEL

805. OF WHAT DISTINGUISHES THE FRENCH.

806. WHAT ARE THE FRENCH FAMOUS FOR?

807. PERFUME THAT SMELLS GOOD — SENSE OF SMELL.

808. FOOD THAT TASTES GOOD — SENSE OF TASTE.

809. ART, ARCHITECTURE — VISUAL SENSE.

810. THERE'S REALLY NO EXPLANATION FOR THEIR CRAP POP MUSIC,

811. BUT, YOU KNOW, THREE OUT OF FOUR IS NOT BAD.

812. THESE ARE ALL MATTERS OF THE SENSES.

813. IT'S THEIR ATTITUDE TOWARDS PLEASURE AND SENSUALITY

814. AND FOOD IN GENERAL BEING THE BEST EXAMPLE.

815. IN THE ENGLISH-SPEAKING WORLD,

816. THERE'S ALWAYS BEEN A CERTAIN AMBIVALENCE

817. ABOUT TAKING PLEASURE AT THE TABLE.

818. THERE'S BEEN THIS NOTION, THIS PURITANICAL NOTION,

819. THAT IF YOU TAKE TOO MUCH PLEASURE IN YOUR FOOD

820. THAT IT MIGHT SOMEHOW LEAD TO BAD CHARACTER,

821. IT MIGHT LEAD TO HARDER STUFF, LIKE SEX, FOR INSTANCE.

822. I THINK THE FRENCH HAVE ALWAYS UNDERSTOOD

823. THAT, YEAH — HELL, YEAH, IT DOES LEAD TO SEX.

824. AND IT SHOULD.

825. THAT RESIDUAL SENSE OF FOOD BEING GOOD,

826. FOOD BEING IMPORTANT, FOOD BEEN WORTH WAITING FOR,

827. AND FOOD BEING WORTH SPENDING TIME WITH.

828. EATING IS AND SHOULD BE A JOYOUS OCCASION.

829. AS SHOULD THE USE OF ALL YOUR SENSES.

830. SO, AMERICA, PERHAPS YOU SHOULD TRY IT.

831. MAYBE DUCK OUT OF THE OFFICE WHEN THE BOSS ISN'T LOOKING,

832. OR CALL IN SICK FOR THAT BORING MEETING,

833. PULL UP A CHAIR AT A LOCAL JOINT,

834. GRAB A TASTY BEVERAGE, AND EAT A HAM SANDWICH.

835. REALLY EAT A HAM SANDWICH.

836. YOU JUST MAY FIND YOU NOT ONLY LOVE THE FRENCH AGAIN,

837. BUT YOU MAY ALSO LOVE LIFE AND, ULTIMATELY, THE WORLD.

838. CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY DISCOVERY COMMUNICATIONS, INC.